Day 8 - Camp I to Supply Camp II (5,000M to 5,800M)

New Elevation and Near Frustration

Hydration is a constant battle on the mountain. Everyone has tricks to drink between five and seven liters of fluids each day. We've been drinking Suko, flavored drink powder, for a week solid. Even when diluted to one package per 2 liters it is still strong enough to evoke a diabetic coma. So, I've shifted to drinking my first liter of the day as a highly diluted soup of one package (designed for one cup) per one liter of hot water. It is very thin but sates the bodily saline craving, while bolstering core temperatures before heading out into the elements.



The hike up to Camp II is intimidating for differing reasons than the trek to Camp I. We were about to have a baptism of full force summit winds and temperatures. Everyone "rugged up" with layers, covering most exposed skin with a final layer of gortex or some other windproof material.



Our first "sit down" rest break was near the crest of the alpine bowl. The howling winds gained immediate respect, as balaclavas started appearing to supplement or replace fleece stocking caps.



Everyone "hunkered down" for this break to brace for the remaining two thirds of exposed climb to Camp II. We tried to eat calories, but the small bag of nuts and raisins just wasn't doing the trick. The rest of the meal pack consisted of various forms of candy and cookies. This was fine the first few days, but most were sick of the repetitive sweets.



The lack of meaningful calorie count really started to take a toll as the steps wore on. By the time we reached "less that an hour to go" to Camp II, the typical climbing tricks had to be exercised: listen to ipod, set 20 meter short-term goals, keep head down concentrating only on the next step, etc. The blurred vision and mental lack of clarity only emphasized the completeness of the "bonk". I was in real trouble. Thankfully, Canadian Dan had distributed spare Powerbars the day before and Simon was generous enough to hand one out. The calories were a euphoric elixir. Within 20 minutes everything improved and the ascent continued.



Our purpose of the day was two fold: first to supply Camp II with provision for the summit push and second to acclimatize to a higher altitude. For most, this new elevation was near "personal best" territory and no one had "naturally slept" at these altitudes before, while a couple had used altitude simulating "bed tents" in training to simulate the altitude at sea level. The group had no issues finding rocks to sit on or simple wind walls for a high altitude nap.

The group didn't know quite what to make of Leigh's "turn back" and inability to make Camp II. He is a former British Commando a strong as steel, so we were all surprised to see him struggle and ultimately turn. Altitude plays no favorites. Even the physically adept can fall into a frustrated prey.



When the call finally came for descent, there were no arguments or desires to stay longer at 5,800 meters. The group happily, slid, glided, stumbled and skidded down the scree incline towards Camp I.



Remarkably, a single day of higher elevation made the previous high water mark of Camp I seem more oxygen rich. It wasn't hard to imagine how good this would feel after summitting.


Just in case you may be wondering what dinner looks like at 5,000M; it is very salty and dense. Despite this, shoveling down a liter and a half of the protein/carbo sludge was reasonably easy work. The reminder of altitude was the mental intervention of how much of life is lived while holding one's breath. For example, every time a swallow occurs there is oxygen deprivation. Just in case you doubt this, breathing and swallowing at the same time, is also known as aspiration, i.e. the precursor to drowning by filling the lungs with something other than gases. So literal rest, panting, is needed to regain oxygen levels after several bites/swallows have depleted the supply.



The chilled blasts of wind on the monster "Dutch Fooy" nose spurred high altitude creativity. A second degree sun or wind burn was not on the priority list. So cutting a familiar soup box corner was the beginning point for an impromptu glacier glasses nose guard.



Not pretty, but with the aid of a little waterproof white tap the "Jacko" sloped appendage was ready for field testing.