03.08.07 - Torres del Paine

Day 2 – Glacier Grey to Refugio Los Cuernos

Any way you sell it, 24 kilometers over rocky, twisted trails is a long way. Birgit, Linda, Lipika and I tried hard to put a good face on the distance and headed out about 9:30 in the morning.

The first stop was just a short fifteen-minute walk in the opposite direction and was worth every step. The Glacier Grey viewing point gave a spectacular vantage point for experiencing the right fork.



Birgit, a native of Bavaria, enjoyed the locomotive size ice calves.



Over four hours and 11 kilometers later we arrived at Refugio Paine Grande, where we made lunch and rested in a gazebo. This refugio reminded me more of a Super-8 motel than a backpacking shelter.



The weather had proven to be a testament to the advertised forecast of constant meteorological change. Last evening it snowed above the tree line and rained gently by the lake. By afternoon Cerro Paine Grande was nestled with the remaining clouds. This scene was so impressive that I had to stop and absorb the enormity of it all.



If you don’t like the weather, wait five minutes to watch the dramatic change. Birgit led us into the bluing sky. She is a member of a hiking club in Munich, who appear to be more of an alpine speed-climbing outfit. I have no shame in admitting that she was kicking my butt all afternoon long.



There are some “Indiana Jones” moments in life and this third world maintained cable bridge was a perfect example. There were rotted boards to be watchful for and others that were all but missing, giving good rationale to the sign requesting no more than two trekkers crossing at any one time.



Varied scenery charms the length of the “W” trek. Streams cut through stone fields, bordered by patches of forest.



The last 5.5 kilometers to Refugio Cuernos was particularly painful. Each of us wondered why our feet were so pained. This stretch of trail was actually more aching than any stretch of the Aconcagua climb. When times get tough, then the ipod makes its appearance and Terry Gross of NPR’s “Fresh Air” guided me across the void of the last 42 minutes.



The vaulted roof line of the refugio was a welcome vision for us all. The weather had actually been pretty good today, with shorter periods of heat than cool clouded conditions (the later being my preference).



The refugios have an interesting requisite, in that each person is required to leave his/her boots outside the front door. This of course limits the depth of dirt on the floors but by no means eliminates the build-up. So, boots are traded for flip-flops as quickly as possible, instead of wandering around in stocking feet. After a warm shower, the crew was ready for dinner and an early exit for bed.