03.27.08 - Iguazu Falls (Brazil)


The Bigger Picture

The rivalry between Argentina and Brazil took a humorous turn today. The border between the two countries is the Rio Iguazu and can be spanned via bridge crossing. Both sides are clearly marked by the painted country colors leading to the center. While crossing this morning a man had stopped his car just short of the Brazilian side, where he and his young son stood apparently enjoying the gorge view. With closer, passing and quickly shifting, view it was apparent that he was actually urinating on the Brazilian colored border wall. The tour guide and bus passengers laughed at the "father to son" active indoctrination of country loyalties.

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As much as the Argentine view and experience of Iguazu Falls is a “do it yourself” no brainer, the Brazilian side is the opposite. The main hassles are distance/transport between the border crossing and the actual park, along with the unaided hassle of the actual immigration process. With a group, the crossing takes little more than ten minutes, in contrast to my Aussie acquaintances delay of more than an hour in trying to navigate the bureaucracy solo.

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The downside of a tour, though, is the mandatory delays at “non-interest” stops like this geode extravaganza store.

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If you are daring enough to try solo transport to the Brazilian park, you will be rewarded upon reaching the main gate. After paying fees and entering the gates, Disney Land would struggle to have a more organized experience, complete with double decked buses and automated listening tour while being transported to the main viewing point and paved trail.

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There are tourist debates, as to whether it is worth the time to see both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of Iguazu Falls. Each provides a different experience. The Argentine side provides unmatched location and proximity to the Devils Throat falls and represents about 60% of the total World Heritage Site, but Brazil offers unparalleled vistas of the lengths of varying falls.

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For broad views, the Brazilian park is well worth the transport hassle; visually demonstrating the native descriptor of "I-Guazu" or literally "Water-Big" (inverted gringo translation, big water).

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The platforms also provide a vantage point to show "just how close" one gets to the Devil's Throat falls on the Argentine platforms.

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The bio-diversity continued to surprise, but I'm still not sure whether this critter is just a moth in butterfly's clothes.

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Unfortunately, I didn't write the name of this affable mammal down.  He is a distant relative of the North American raccoon, but is actually a type of Ant Eater.  The few creatures spotted didn't seem to mind the human invasion to the cool sidewalks.

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The other downside of a tour was that the day lingered needlessly longer than the value added.  We could have easily been back to Puerto Iguazu for lunch, but instead had to go to a Brazilian Buffet place and two other native craft shops before eventually returning just shy of 4:30pm.

Today also marked the end of my Argentinean adventure.  Re-crossing the border, this time with backpack in tow, I headed to Foz do Iguacu to catch an overnight bus to Campo Grande.  The warning about lower bus quality in Brazil was actualized, as this standard (not so clean) bus seat was the highest level of service available, as compared to the semi-cama Argentinean bus taken to Puerto Iguazu.

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The good news was that the pharmacist at the bus station location was very helpful and friendly.  So, "obrigado" for the kindness to strangers.




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