If traveling to Puerto Iguazu, the Argentine side of the falls can easily be accomplished without a guide or tour service. Simply take the public bus from town (clearly marked for the falls). It will drop you off at the park's front gate, for about 50 cents in fare, where a clearly marked map will lead you onward.
After paying admission, walk to the rail line and wait for the mini-train that will bring you to the Garganta del Diablo Station.
Leaving the station, the natural park sounds and insect life became immediately apparent, first with the appearance of this super colorful moth (I believe moths stand with their wings closed and butterflies with wings open, but any biologists can feel free to correct if I'm mistaken.)
Our next surprise was a praying mantis that wanted nothing to do with being saved from the footpath. Trying to move the little guy to a safer ground only reaped the reward of many “pin prick” bites.
The path to the Garganta de Diablo or Devil’s Throat is practically new, spanning several of the smaller tributaries to the falls.
From a distance there isn’t much impressive by the impending falls, but the thunderous plunging noise and spray hint to a different story.
Our guide tells us that we are lucky to have such small crowds, but towards the end of the platform the size of the falls were still masked.
Once safely in place, at the end of the cat walk, all the senses were then in perfect perspective, with visual plunge, courses of spray blasting across the edge, a rush of o-zone up the nostrils, leaving a slightly metallic ionized taste in the back of your throat and the resounding overbearing roar.
The width of the active falls doesn’t match Niagara, but the personal physical proximity can’t be matched. Iguazu is the largest falls in the world by width, but only in the swollen rainy season, when the Devil’s Throat is joined by kilometers of trickling edges.
The whole scene must have been distracting to Andrea, with all the mood enhancing free radical negative ions floating around, because she actually managed an honest smile in a pre-planned photo… sacrifices must be made in the name of documentation.
Across the gorge is the Pink Hotel of the Brazilian side, which is visually classic but still a bit of a wonder for its placement within a National Park, complete with wild indigenous jaguars (one even decided to take a park rangers child).
After the return train ride back to the originating station, there are two circuits to walk in completing the tour. The Upper Circuit (Circuito Superior) will bring you in close range to many of the smaller, but large by any other standard, falls that connect together during floods.
Power is still not a problem for these lesser falls, with millions of gallons cresting the cliffs. (Don't be fooled by a lack of comparison and the benefit of camera zoom, this expanse of water was over 50 meters wide.)
An added benefit of all the spray was not only its cooling affect but also the creation of tens of rainbows.
The Lower Circuit (Circuito Minor) brings you to a much recommended tourist opportunity. I am not usually the type to indulge in the obvious "tourist trap activity" for a hefty fee, but for $40 USD the riverboat ride is a “must do event”. First passengers are treated to a river level view of the larger falls.
Then, a return trip to the lower falls means a thorough dousing underneath the pressing spray. (Note the boat in the lower right corner of the falls.) If you chant “Otro, otro, otro …” the driver may reward with a second dunking.
I had a blast with Akemi, her son, and friend Megan (all from San Francisco). We were all filled with anticipation heading into the falls.
Then the captain provided time for a more relaxed pose on the bow, before our first and second row seated drenching.
After the rush of being pummeled by spray, the boat heads down river for a short truck driven safari ride back to the front gate and return buses to Puerto Iguazu. However, the most interesting sites of the 2,000 plant and 400 birds species were two insects and a bird.
(Check out the size of this ant in reference to Andrea’s boot. There were no “perspective games” needed, as this sucker was huge… and she didn’t really step on him.)
Another super colorful moth sighting…
And, no idea what the name of this bird was, but with multiple calls it was really interesting to watch.
So, net, net, Iguazu Falls on the Argentina side are a piece of cake to visit, if you are the DIY type. The entire experience will exhaust a full day, so leave early and enjoy a late afternoon exit.
03.25.08 - Iguazu Falls (Argentina)
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