The single morning bus to Torres del Paine National Park from Puerto Natales picked our motley crew up from the hostel at about 7:45am, continued collecting other trekkers around town, and then headed out on the first of two paved roads out of town.
The Patagonia scenery is dramatic, with peaks jutting out of the plains, combined with some of the most adverse weather for trekking. It is not uncommon for hikers to experience heat, rain, and snow all in the same day. We hoped for something a little more positively stable.
Our objective for the next five days was to hike “The W”, which is one of the hallmark treks in the world. Basically, we would hike three sides of two mountains in the next five days (hence the "W" shaped trek), to be treated to hopefully stellar views of glaciers and peaks. Many groups hike “The W” from East to West, so our plan was to hike the trail in reverse to avoid some of the early camp bottle-necks from the influx of Navimag passengers. Ironically, to avoid the Navimag human flood we would need to board another ferry.
To help kill time before departure we made a quick walk to the Salto Grande. These falls were powerful, strengthened by naturally confining stone boundaries.
Crossing Lago Pehoe, the first clear glimpses of the Torres del Paine mountain range magnetically drew us in. The zebra striped mountains we formed by a combination of sedimentary and volcanic creation, combined with jagged plate tech-tonic uplift, finally culminating with the effects of erosion.
Upon landing the group made final preparations at the Paine Grande campsite and then headed out the initial boardwalk trail. Already, we were catching glimpses of two sides of the Cerro Paine Grande portion of the trek.
The group launched up the trail at a somewhat blistering pace. My slow twitch plod pace of Aconcagua was seriously being challenged. The Dutchies and Birgit led the charge, with Linda and Lipika in close chase. I decided to just let them go and see how long it would take before the pace withered, so we would all be together again… about a half hour was the answer.
Torres del Paine is a beautiful collection of mountains and glaciers, resulting in some spectacular scenery. Laguna Los Patos was a nice initiation to the natural wonders. The laguna was created as a result of trapped glacial water, in a stone basin. Clear purity would be an understatement of this gigantic pool.
Impressed by the scenery, it was time for a group shot, minus the photographer Lipika.
Our trek today would be 11 kilometers along Lago Grey, with an ultimate destination of Refugio Grey (a kind of lakeside national park youth hostel). When we crested the ridge, separating us from Lago Grey, everyone was excited to see the icebergs, or glacial calves, floating.
Calves were as big as destroyers, harboring an unreal depth of blue reflection.
About half way into the hike, the first glimpses of Glacier Grey came into view.
Yet another photo-op location…
During the day, I had the pleasure of talking with a group of Australian women who left from the same hostel. At breakfast, I overheard some “hushed chatting”, “he looks like… yeah, but sporty.” There were several Aussie initiated conversations along the trail and then finally the question was posed. "Do you know Shannon Noll?"
They laughed, “Not a she, a he.”
“Nope, sorry, still in the dark.”
“Well, he’s the runner-up to Aussie Idol and a big star… and you look just like him, but uh… a sporty version.”
I think my head was beginning to swell with the attention.
This was a rupture of biblical proportions. With the momentum lost, it was apparent that once again a limp first name had a crushing double “x” chromosome impact. Plodding along my mind wandered to just how this episode would have played out as a biblical chapter…
Patagonians 1, verses 1 to 11
Paul rebuked on the road to Refugio Grey
1. Now Paul, son of Walter, was traveling in the land of the Sourly Pisco when a band from the country of Oz greeted him. 2. Paul was unsure of intentions, as these were also travelers from a foreign land, seeking a false idol. 3. Presuming him to be an incarnation, the clan of Oz presented gifts of attention and adulation. 4. Tempted, and being of human condition, Paul traveled with the strangers, pondering if angels were being entertained aware.
5. On the road to Refugio Grey, a flash of perceptive clarity was wrought upon the group when one came seeking the false idol, questioning, “What name has been given thee?” 6. Lacking deception and answering with an honest disposition, the son of Walter replied, “Paul.”
7. No idol or kinsman redeemer could bear such a name as this. 8. The travelers of the land of Oz rebuked him saying, “You should better be known as Shazzle than such a name as this!”
9. Thus the band of Oz departed from him and there was gnashing of teeth and renting of clothes as the ashes of disdain fell upon his head. 10. Then Paul refused his birthright, turning to the heritage of his forefathers, declaring, “No more shall the given name of Paul be spoken from these lips.”
11. Taking the name of Jens, he continued on the road to Refugio Grey and was no longer known throughout the land by the delegation of the previous generation.
… crushing, yet another jab, but I’ll get over it. The funny thing is that, this crew of Aussies decided to strike their most “blokey” poses. I guess Aussie guys must look like this in pictures. Anyway, it was all good fun in the end.
Despite the graying sky there were still instances of color flashes. In one of the sheltered valleys, complete with streaming water source, a patch of vibrant hanging bells shared their pollen with the native bees.
Finally, after well over four hours of climbing and descending along the banks of Lago Grey, our camp came into view. It was stunning to see glacial calves floating by, within tens of meters of pitched tents.
An advertisement on the refugio chalkboard announced, “10,000 Yr-old Ice w/ Every Pisco Sour.” This clearly demanded a demonstrated experience or three.
With this, strange thoughts tend to emerge, like maybe I should go touch that big chunk of ice floating by.
Better yet, Marijn took advantage of his nearly two-meter wingspan to snatch a piece from the water, without even getting wet.
The glacial ice is incredibly hard, resembling more of a huge raw diamond than faceted suspended water. The chunk seemed to be self-perpetuating in the near freezing temperatures, so I brought it inside the refugio to melt into my glass. The slowly gathering puddle inside my glass was the sweetest water I’ve ever tasted, but of course there may have been a little bias in judgment, as my body now craved hydration.
1 comment:
wow paul! these photos are GORGEOUS!! you look like you're having so much fun and enjoying the entire experience way too much. hehe. hope you're safe and "trekkin" as usual! :-) where are you now???
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